By Bernardo Moreno

Huichapan is a wonderful city in the state of Hidalgo. It is a great place to visit, and it is only a two-hour drive from San Miguel de Allende. The trip begins as if you were going to Mexico City, but you turn towards Pachuca just after San Juan del Río. From there it takes another half hour to reach Huichapan. There is a charming hotel there that I love, called Casa Bixi. It has Barragán architecture, beautiful patios and gardens, comfortable and detailed rooms, and attentive personal service.

Huichapan in the Nahuatl language means “river of the willows,” and in the Olmec language it translates to “abundance of water.” The name is perfectly appropriate because of the multiple ravines, streams, and underground rivers to be found there. You will also find thermal water spas, in case you want to take a good soaking. 

For those who appreciate anthropology and history, there are at least two points of interest that cannot be missed. The first is the cave paintings in the community of Boyé. A local guide can help you understand the messages hidden within the paintings and their importance for those who inhabited the area many years ago. The other place to visit is the archaeological site of Pañhu. From there you can see the imposing view of the valley with its surrounding hills. It was home to the Xajay culture, which existed between the years 300 and 1,100 CE. These people are closely associated with the origin of the Otomi culture.

Huichapan is also famous for pulque and barbecue. To start the day you must first go for a good breakfast at the market, at Las Carnitas and Barbacoa Los Arcos. Then walk through the center of town to take in the colonial architecture. Marvel at the three churches, and the monolithic cross that stands over three meters high. While looking at the cross you can appreciate the deeply ingrained cultural syncretism, with both Spanish and indigenous roots. Then wander through the house called La Borrasca. Look at its very high walls, with bullet holes still visible from ferocious battles fought here during the revolution.

Then it’s time to go for pulque! Pulque is an indigenous alcoholic beverage. It is made from the fermented juice of the maguey plant and has been in Mexico for thousands of years. For pulque, we went to the community of Mamithi, and were told to look for a man named Don Pablo. We did not find him, but luckily, we saw some young people scraping some maguey trees. We discovered they were collecting the maguey to make pulque. They took us to their house, and we tasted their pulque. It was sweet and viscous. It coated our stomachs and made us happy. 

The art of making pulque is slowly being lost, and it is rare to see young people who are keeping the tradition alive. It is heartwarming to see this old tradition being carried into the 21st century by the young people of Mamithi. With pulque in our stomachs, and a few liters for the road, we headed towards the semi-arid mountainous region called Astillero. There you find cacti, yuccas, and mesquites. We stopped to try the pulque at Monte Alegre with Mrs. Imelda. Clearly, this pulque was stronger, less slimy, and sourer than the pulque we had in Mamithi. It made us even happier. We bought several liters, and once again were on our way. 

In this mountainous terrain there is a huge crater within the mythical hill of Coatepec. This hill is called the Hill of the Serpents. According to Aztec mythology, this is where Huitzilopochtli was born. He was one of the most powerful gods in the Aztec pantheon of gods. We searched this area until we found a very interesting place. 

It was an open plain at the edge of a dam. Under an old oak tree, we observe the immensity of the crater and the dramatic clouds above us. We felt a few drops of rain and, fortified with the magical pulque, we also felt the power of the ancient gods who once held sway over this beautiful land. After this moving personal experience, I can recommend a trip to Huichapan to anyone who is susceptible to the power of pulque and the ancient gods of the Aztecs, or anyone who is simply looking for a good time.

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